What You Get
1 Coopers Light Unhopped Malt Extract (UME)
1 Packet of Booster
1 Packet of Carapils
1 Packet of Crystal Malt 40
3 Packets of Columbus Hops
2 Packets Simcoe of Hops
1 Packet of Centennial Hops
7 Muslin Hop Sacks
1 Packet of S-05 Ale Yeast
1 Packet of No-Rinse Cleanser
STEP 1: Sanitizing
Cleaning is one of the most important steps in brewing. It kills microscopic bacteria, wild yeast, and molds that may cause off-flavors in your beer. Make certain to clean all equipment that comes in contact with your beer by following the directions below:
1. Fill clean keg with warm water to line mark 1 on the back, then add ½ pack (about 1 tablespoon) of No-Rinse Cleanser and stir until dissolved. Once dissolved, the solution is ready to use. Save the remaining ½ of No-Rinse Cleanser because you will need it for bottling.
2. Screw-on the lid and swirl the keg so that the cleaning solution makes contact with the entire interior of the keg, including the underside of the lid. Note that the ventilation notches under the lid may leak the solution. Allow to sit for at least 2 minutes and swirl again.
3. To clean the spigot, open it fully and allow the liquid to flow for 5 seconds, and then close.
4. Pour the rest of the solution from the keg into a large bowl. Place your spoon/whisk, can opener, and measuring cup into the bowl to keep them cleaned throughout the brewing process. Leave them immersed for at least 2 minutes in a cleaning solution prior to use.
5. After all, surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned, do not rinse or dry the keg or utensils. Return lid to the top of the keg, proceed immediately to brewing.
STEP 2: BREWING
Brewing beer is the process of combining a starch source (in this case, a malt brewing extract) with yeast. Once combined, the yeast eats the sugars in the malt, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2). This process is called fermentation.
1. Add all the grains into one muslin sack tie it closed so that the grain can flow freely within the sack and set aside.
2. Add 8 cups of water to a 1 gallon or larger boil pot. Begin heating the water to a range of 150-155 degrees F and hold, at this range. Next, add the grain sack into the water, and maintain the 150-155 temp for 30 minutes.
3. While you wait add 1 and 1/2 of a packet of Columbus hops into a hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Then add the other 1/2 packet of Columbus hops into a hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Then add 1/4 of a packet of Simcoe hops into a hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Then add the remaining 3/4 of Simcoe Hops and 1/4 of a packet of Centennial hops into a hopsack and tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack. Set these aside later and remember which hops are in what hopsack! (For the remaining 3/4 packet of hops store in a Ziplock bag in the freezer. You want as little air as possible in the bag. You will use the remaining packet during dry-hopping)
4. After the 30 minute steep has completed, turn off the heat and remove the grain sack from the pot and place it into a colander to drain, allowing the runoff to flow back into the pot, and rinse the grain with one cup of hot water (around 150 degrees), letting the excess runoff flow back into your pot. DO NOT squeeze the grain sack. Once drained, discard the grain sack.
5. Open the can of Coopers Light Malt Extract and booster and pour them into your grain water. Make sure to mix this thoroughly to prevent scorching. Once the UME and booster are thoroughly mixed bring this mixture up to a low rolling boil. Continue to stir occasionally while the mixture is coming to a boil.
6. Once you have reached a low rolling boil add in your hopsack with 1 and 1/2 packet of Columbus hops and allow them to boil for 90 minutes in this mixture. Keep an eye on the water level and top off as necessary.
7. Once you have 45 minutes left of your 90-minute boil you will add in your next hopsack with the 1/2 packet of Columbus hops. Keep an eye on the water level and top off as necessary.
8. Once you have 30 minutes left of your 90-minute boil you will add in your next hopsack with the 1/4 packet of Simcoe hops. Keep an eye on the water level and top off as necessary.
9. Once your full 90-minute boil is up turn off the heat, add in your last hopsack with 1/4 packet of Centennial Hops and 3/4 packet of Simcoe Hops. Then remove your pot from the heat. The hop sacks will stay in your fermenter for the duration of fermentation.
10. Fill your fermenter with cold tap water to mark 1 on the back. If using any other fermenter this would be approximately 1 gallon of water.
11. Pour the wort including the hop sacks, into your fermenter, and then bring the volume of the fermenter to mark 2 by adding more cold water. (If you have a different fermenter top it off to 8.5 liters).
12. Stir your wort mixture vigorously with your sanitized spoon or whisk.
13. Sprinkle the S-05 brewing yeast packet into the keg, and screw on the lid. Do not stir.
Put your fermenter in a location with a consistent temperature between 68° and 78° F, and out of direct sunlight. Ferment for 21 days.
STEP 3: Dry-Hopping
Dry hopping is the process of adding hops to a beer which will impart more hop flavor and aroma to your beer.
1. On day 8 of your fermentation, you will add your first dry hop addition. Sanitize your muslin sack by boiling it in water for 30 seconds. Then using clean scissors open a packet of Columbus and Simcoe Hops. You will add 1/2 of the packet of Columbus hops to the hopsack, 3/4 of a packet of Simcoe hops, and 2/3 of the open packet of Centennial Hops from your brew day. Tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack Carefully remove the lid from your fermenter and add in your hopsack. Quickly close the lid. (For the remaining packets of hops store them in a Ziplock bag in the freezer. You want as little air as possible in the bag.)
2. On day 16 of fermentation you will the remaining hops that you have. Sanitize your muslin sack by boiling it in water for 30 seconds. Add in your remaining packets of Columbus, Simcoe and Centennial hops. Tie it closed so that the hops have room to expand and flow freely within the sack Carefully remove the lid from your fermenter and add in your hopsack. Quickly close the lid.
STEP 4: Bottling & Carbonating
After 21 days, taste a small sample to determine if the beer is fully fermented and ready to bottle. If it tastes like flat beer, it is ready. If it’s sweet, then it’s not ready. Let it ferment for 3 more days (24 total). At this point, it is time to bottle. Do not let it sit in the fermenter for longer than 24 days total.
1. When your beer is ready to bottle, fill a 1-gallon container with warm water, then add the remaining ½ pack of the No-Rinse Cleanser and stir until dissolved. Once dissolved, it is ready to use.
2. Distribute the cleaning solution equally among the bottles. Screw-on caps (or cover with a metal cap if using glass bottles) and shake bottles vigorously. Allow to sit 10 minutes, then shake the bottles again. Remove caps and empty all cleaning solution into a large bowl. Use this solution to clean any other equipment you may be used for bottling. Do not rinse.
4. Holding the bottle at an angle, fill each bottle to about 2 inches from the bottle’s top.
5. Place caps on bottles, hand tighten, and gently turn the bottle over to check the bottle’s seal. It is not necessary to shake them.
6. Store the bottles upright and out of direct sunlight in a location with a consistent temperature between 70°-76°F or 21°-24°C. Allow sitting for a minimum of 14 days. If the temperature is cooler than suggested it may take an additional week to reach full carbonation.
Tip from our Brewmasters
After the primary carbonation has taken place your beer is ready to drink. We recommend putting 1 bottle in the refrigerator at first for 48 hrs. After 48hrs. give it a try and if it is up to your liking put the rest of your beer in the fridge. If it does not taste quite right, leave the bottles out at room temp for another week or so. Keep following this method until your brew tastes just how you like it.
This process is called conditioning and during this time the yeast left in your beer can help clean up any off-flavors. Almost everything gets a little better with time and so will your beer.