1 Can Long Play IPA Brewing Extract (Yeast under lid. You won’t be using this.)
3 Pouches Brewmax LME – Pale
1 Packet Carapils (4oz.)
1 Packet Nugget Hops (1/2oz.)
2 Packets Amarillo Hops (1/2oz each)
2 Packets Cascade Hops (1/2oz. each)
4 Packets Centennial Hops (1/2oz. each)
5 Muslin Hop Sacks
1 Safale US-05 Yeast
1 Packet No-Rinse Cleanser
STEP 1: SANITIZING
Cleaning is an essential step in the brewing process because it kills microscopic bacteria, wild yeast and molds that may cause off flavors in your beer. YOU MUST CLEAN ALL EQUIPMENT THAT COMES IN CONTACT WITH YOUR BEER.
- Fill your fermenter with warm water to the line mark 1 on the back. If your fermenter does not have a line mark 1 fill with 1 gallon of water. Then add ½ pack (about 1 tablespoon) of No-Rinse Cleanser and stir until dissolved. Once dissolved, the solution is ready to use.
- Screw on the lid and swirl the fermenter so that the cleaning solution comes in contact with the entire interior of the fermenter, including the underside of the lid. Allow to sit for at least 2 minutes, and then swirl again.
- Remove the lid and place underneath the spigot, open the spigot and fill the lid with the sanitizing solution. Close the spigot and pour out the cleaning solution from the lid.
- Dispense all the sanitizing solution into a large bowl. Place your spoon, can opener, measuring cup and any other brewing utensils into the bowl to sanitize and keep them cleaned throughout the brewing process for at least 2 minutes in cleaning solution before using utensils. Anything that you use during the brewing process must be sanitized.
- After all surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned, do not rinse or dry the fermenter or utensils. Proceed immediately to the brewing process.
STEP 2: BREWING
Brewing beer is the process of combining a starch source (in this case, a malt brewing extract) with yeast. Once combined, the yeast eats the sugars in the malt, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide (CO2). This process is called fermentation.
- Using a measuring cup, pour 4 cups of water into your clean 3-quart or larger pot (Use just enough water to cover the grains).
- Add the Carapils grains to a Muslin Hop Sacks tying it closed.
- Bring your pot of water up to above 155 degrees F.
- Add the grain sack to the hot water and steep for 30 minutes between 155-165 degrees.
- Carefully lift the grain sack out of the pot, and place into a strainer/colander. Rinse each sack over the pot with 1/2 cup of hot water each. Let drain. Do NOT squeeze the grain bags. Discard grain bags.
- Remove the yeast packet from under the lid of the Brewing Extract (you won’t be using this), then place the unopened can in hot tap water.
- Place the Nugget pellet hops into a hop sack tying it closed, then trim away excess material.
- Bring the grain water to a low rolling boil, add in hop sack, and let simmer at a low boil for 10 minutes, then remove from heat.
- While this is boiling (step 7), place the contents of 1 packet of each hop (Amarillo and Cascade) and 2 packets of Centennial into a hop sack and trim away excess material.
- After the 10-minute Nugget boil has passed (step 7), add the remaining hops (step 8) and simmer at a low boil for another 5 minutes.
- While this is boiling, place the rest of the hops in an airtight container and put in freezer until it’s time for dry-hopping.
- After the 5-minute hop boil has passed, remove the pot from heat.
- Open the can of Brewing Extract and the LME Softpack, pour the contents into the hot mixture. Stir until thoroughly mixed. This mixture of unfermented beer is called “wort”.
- Fill your fermenter with cold tap water to the #1 mark on the back. If using any other fermenter this would be approximately 1 gallon of water.
- Pour the wort, including the hop sacks, into the fermenter, and then bring the volume of the fermenter to the #2 mark by adding more cold water. You'll leave the hop sacks in the wort for the duration of fermentation. (If you have a different fermenter top it off with cold water to the 8.5-liter mark.)
- Stir your wort mixture vigorously with your sanitized spoon or whisk.
- Sprinkle the Safale US-05 yeast packet into the keg, and screw on the lid. Do not stir.
- Put your keg in a location with a consistent temperature between 70° and 76° F (21°-24° C) and out of direct sunlight. Due to the amount of malt sugars in this wort, please be sure to brew within this temperature range, otherwise overflows may occur. Ferment for 21 days.
- After approximately 24 hours, you will see the fermentation process happening by shining a flashlight into the keg. You'll see the yeast in action in the wort. The liquid will be opaque and milky, you will see bubbles rising in the liquid, and there will be bubbles on the surface.
- Your fermentation will usually reach its peak in 2 to 5 days (this is also known as “high krausen”). You may see a layer of foam on top of the wort, and sediment will accumulate at the bottom of the fermenter. This is totally normal. Complete fermentation will take approximately 2 weeks.
- After high krausen the foam and activity will subside, and your batch will appear to be dormant. Your beer is still fermenting. The yeast is still at work slowly finishing the fermentation process.
STEP 3: Dry-Hopping
Dry hopping is the process of adding hops to a beer which will impart more hop flavor and aroma in your beer.
- At day 16 of fermentation add the rest of the hops into your fermenter. Careful remove the lid from your fermenter and dump the pellet hops in. Quickly close the lid.
STEP 4: BOTTLING AND CARBONATING
After 3 weeks, you will know the beer is ready to bottle and carbonate by tasting a small sample. The beer should taste like flat beer. If the beer is sweet, make sure that it is in the correct temperature range 70°-76°F or 21°-24°C and let it ferment for a few days longer, but no longer than a total of 4 weeks.
- When your beer is ready to bottle, fill a 1-gallon container with warm water, then add the remaining ½ pack of the No-Rinse Cleanser and stir until dissolved. Once dissolved, it is ready to use.
- Distribute the cleaning solution equally among the bottles. Screw on caps (or cover with metal cap if using glass bottles) and shake bottles vigorously. Allow to sit 10 minutes, then shake the bottles again. Remove caps and empty all cleaning solution into a large bowl. Use this solution to clean any other equipment you may be using for bottling. Do not rinse.
- Add 2 carbonation drops to each 740-mL bottle. For 1-liter bottles, add 2 ½ drops; for ½-liter bottles add 1 drop. Alternatively, you can add table sugar per the table below. For other bottle sizes see: http://www.mrbeer.com/help.
- Holding the bottle at an angle, fill each bottle to about 2 inches from the bottle’s top.
- Place caps on bottles, hand tighten, and gently turn the bottle over to check the bottle’s seal. It is not necessary to shake them.
- Store the bottles upright and out of direct sunlight in a location with a consistent temperature between 70°-76°F or 21°-24°C. Allow to sit for a minimum of 14 days. If the temperature is cooler than suggested it may take an additional week to reach full carbonation.
Tip from our Brewmasters
After the primary carbonation has taken place your beer is ready to drink. We recommend putting 2 bottles in the refrigerator at first for 48 hrs. After 48hrs. give one a try and if it is up to your liking put the rest of your beer in the fridge. If it does not taste quite right, leave the bottles out at room temp for another week or so. Keep following this method until your brew tastes just how you like it.
This process is called conditioning and during this time the yeast left in your beer can help clean up any off flavors. Almost everything gets a little better with time and so will your beer.